13. Now let's get to the front springs. Raise and secure the front of your stang. Remove the tires and preload the suspension of one side with the jack. You'll lower it in the following steps to loosen the spring and remove it.
14. We'll need to remove a few items to gain clearance to the springs. Let's remove the brake caliper. On the SN95 it's held in place with 2 smaller bolts from inside out. Don't accidentally remove those 2 long bolts at the top! Look for 2 smaller bolts on the inside of the caliper holding it on. After it's removed you can hang it out of the way with a wire.
15. Next we remove the front sway bar end links. You can do both sides at this point.
16. There is also a brake line retainer bolt that may need to be removed. We'll be lowering the A-arm to get the spring out and we don't want this brake line pulled. So remove the retainer bolt to be sure.
17. Now you can mark the plate locations on your stang. But if your stang is '96 or newer, they are riveted in place, so no adjustments can be made without cracking those rivets off. We marked the plate, but it didn't move at all during the install. If you have a '94-'95 stang, your plate may not be riveted down and you may need to mark it. The stock plates do not allow much to be set, if you want adjustability, buy a set of camber/caster plates.
18. There are 2 ways to remove the front springs. With or without a spring compressor. If you DO NOT have a spring compressor, then you will also need to remove the tie rod ends to allow the A-arm to drop lower to remove the stock springs. If you do not un-bolt the tie rods (coming from the steering rack) you will not be able to remove the stock springs without the use of a spring compressor (see more notes way below).
19. Depending on which method you chosen, you'll either have the tie rods removed or you will have your spring compressor in place. Now with the suspension preloaded you can remove the 3 strut bolts and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY lower the A-arm with the jack to allow the front spring to de-compress and then remove it. We'd say stand away from the spring while doing this also in case it boings out at you (unlikely). Watch the strut as the arm approaches full down, you don't want the strut to fall out and damage your stang.
20. Here we show the A-arm completely down to the floor, which is only possible if you removed the tie rods. This method is actually easier than using the spring compressor. BUT you'll need a special tie rod puller tool to remove the tie rods from the A-arm. So you technically don't need a spring compressor for this install if you remove the tie rod ends like we did here on the passenger side. The next steps shows us using the spring compressor when we did the driver side spring. Notice the small round hole in the A-arm, it's there so you can remove the spring compressor (if used) once new springs are in place.
21. Lay in your new springs making sure you lay the pig tails into the groove in the lower A-arm. Use the factory rubber insulator and boots as well. As you can see in this picture, our new progressive rate springs don't fit without pre-compressing them with a spring compressor (tie rods in place). If you are installing specific rate springs, they should fit in with no pre-compression. This is why most shops charge an extra $50-$70 for progressive rate spring installs.
22. If you do have access to a spring compressor you can pre-compress the spring to allow it to fit into the A-arm without problems. Otherwise, like we mentioned before you'll need to lower the A-arm to the floor by removing the tie rod ends, which will allow you to lay in the new springs without the spring compressor tool. After you lay in the new springs, jack the A-arm into place while guiding the strut as it goes back up into the fender well. Now bolt everything back into place and you'll be done.
23. FRONT SPRINGS. Here you can see the difference in the new and stock springs.
24. Now we will do the off-set steering rack bushings. Here you can actually see the off-set. You'll want to install these bushings with the hole DOWN. That is, with the off-set facing down. In the photo we show it facing up. A total of 4 bushings are used. 2 per side, one is inserted in the rear, the other in the front per side on the steering rack.
25. Installation is easy, just unbolt the two bolts holding the steering rack in place. Then slide out the bolts through the rear.
26. Next pry out the old bushings from the front.
27. Now pry out the whole steering rack to get to the rear bushings. You'll need to pry the rack out past that center tube you see there. Then install the new bushings hole side down, rear then front. Now just bolt the rack back into place and you are done!
28. Here's the completed install. Give the springs 3 or so days to settle, then you can go in for an alignment to complete the install.

More notes below:

Stock ride height and lowered Mustang shot

As you can see above, the progressive rate springs make your tires fill up the fender wells. If you are going for that really low "slammed" look, then these springs may not be for you. We love the new look and much improved ride and handling the new springs give us. It's like getting a whole new stang.

SPRING COMPRESSORS
You do not need a spring compressor to do this install if you remove the tie rod ends in the front. To remove the tie rods you'll need a special tie rod puller tool, they won't come loose without one. A spring compressor runs around $40 and a tie rod puller runs around $20. Both of these tools can be "loaned" with a deposit from most auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Chief, etc. This is a normal policy for these stores, ask about their tool loaner program.

TIRE ALIGNMENT
After the install we recommend a tire alignment, but we are not getting one at this time. We will be installing a new set of 17"rims and tires real soon and be getting an alignment done at that time. If you are already running your final set of rims then you may get an alignment after a few days of driving to allow the springs to settle a bit.

CAMBER CASTER ADJUSTMENTS
The stock camber / caster plates in the 4.6L and newer stangs are fixed and riveted in place. You can loosen the rivets and try to set them up differently, but we say but don't bother setting them. If you notice excessive tire wear or are racing at Road Atlanta IMSA stock divsion next week, then get a set of adjustable camber / caster plates. Some camber caster plates will also allow full strut travel by raising the strut mounting location, but we have never found the strut travel to be a problem even with the stock plates in any stang we've lowered. So look at a camber / caster plate purchase mainly as a way to adjust camber / caster in your stang. You may also want to purchase an alignment tool so you don't have to pay a shop every time you make your camber / caster changes. 99.9% of folks won't even notice a difference with new camber caster plates in the SN95 platform when driving. Again we recommend them for all out track racers or for Fox4 ('86 - '93) platform stangs mostly, considering the $200 price tag they carry. The '86 - '93 stangs really benefit from aftermarket camber / caster plates by improving front tire wear and drivability on that platform. We like the stock settings and plates in the SN95 ('94 - '96) for the street use and will be purchasing the aftermarket plates only to show you how to install them in the future.

PROGRESSIVE / SPECIFIC RATE SPRINGS INSTALL
Progressive rate springs are the hardest to install because they are tall and require this extra pre-compression or tie rod removal step. If you are installing specific rate springs or springs that really slam your stang, installation is MUCH easier. New specific rate lowering springs will fit into place without pre-compression or tie rod removal.

OFF-SET STEERING RACK BUSHINGS
The off-set bushings put the steering rack very close to the oil pan in the 4.6L, almost pinching it up against it. We drove the stang without the off-set bushings in place and it drives well without them. So we give them an "optional" rating in the 4.6L. You can install them if you want to for good measure. Running the stock bushings do not introduce a Toe out situation so it runs fine.

BE CAREFUL
We must say again to be careful when doing this install. Springs are under high pressure and can launch out at you if you are in the way while doing this install. Once the pressure has been released from the spring, they can be handled safely. You've all probably heard the "campfire" story about the guy who was killed by a flying spring as it shot across the shop floor, you run a greater chance of winning 100 million AND getting struck by lighting before you get killed by a flying spring ! But not to make light of the issue that you can get injured if you don't know what you are doing. Don't even attempt this install unless you are absolutely sure you can finish it completely and safely.

Til next time... se ya on the street !.