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 PRO - 5.0 Shifter Install

Written by Mustangworld.



This mod won't make your stang any faster, but boy will it improve how your Mustang shifts! We decided to install a Pro-5.0 All billet shifter into our 4.6L. We like the feel of this shifter. It feels silky smooth and works so well, that it even has a 30-day money back guarantee! It costs $180. Don't let the name fool you, it works great on 4.6L and 5.0 engines perfectly.

As far as we are concerned they could have also included a "never miss 3rd" guarantee as well, because you will NEVER miss 3rd gear ever again. It's has a unique "patent pending" off-set shift mechanism that works well. All you have to do to get into 3rd in a panic fast situation is push up on the stick, the shifter "finds" third gear for you. We are not talking about a spring loaded self centering deal here, we are talking about a true 2nd to 3rd off-set shift mechanism. You can notice this right away while driving. The pivot point in this new shifter is raised and the stick is also shorter than the stock stick. There are no rubber bushings in the Pro-5.0 either. We did not notice much extra vibration in the stick. Pro-5.0 claims 95% of the vibration is absorbed by their "floating" design, it really does feel that way.

In actuality (for conversation), the T45 in your 4.6L is a T5. It's just beefed up a bit more than the stock T5, so most shifters made for the T5 will work on your T45 (4.6L transmission). There are other differences between the T5 and T45, but for the most part they are very similar and the gear shift mount locations are in the exact same place. This Pro-5.0 kit will fit on any T5 or T45 transmission for '83 and up Mustangs. The aftermarket Tremec trans (like we have in our 5.0) uses a different shifter design.

This shifter also uses "Stop Bolts" which makes it impossible to over extend the shift forks and damage them, so hit your shifter as hard as you like, no damage ! The stock shifter does not have this feature. The stock Tremec trans shifter unit has this feature built in however, but not the T5, T45.

Will this solve your grinding problem (if you have one) ? Probably not. Let's briefly look at the way we categorize a few transmission problems:

"Gear slamming". This is when you do a quick gear grind, BUT your trans still engages the gear, this is usually related to a clutch problem, go to your dealer or adjust it yourself if you know what you are doing. DON'T mess with the self adjusting clutch mechanism if your stang is under warranty, why? Because it's only a temporary fix, you may have a more serious problem and your actions may cause even more problems, before you do this or any other mods it's "dealertime" for you. Go to your dealer, demand a fix... If your stang is out of warranty then do whatever you want at your own risk. If you like to "powershift" (fast shifts, shifting while still on the gas, etc..) then we'd recommend an aftermarket clutch quadrant AND cable, they are easy to install and will allow "toggle switch" engagement/adjustment of your clutch for your racing needs. We use one in our 5.0.

The next is out-right "Gear grinding". This is when your gears really grind and you can't get into gear. OR when your transmission falls out of gear OR if it's hard to shift your stang. These problems mean internal transmission damage has occurred. Either bent shift forks (hard to shift your stang) or damaged synchronizers (won't engage, constant grinding of certain gears). This does not mean you can't drive with this damage in place. You may still be able to drive for another 100,000 miles WITH a damaged tranny, but don't expect top performance out of it when racing.

Getting an aftermarket shifter with these "stop bolts" will actually increase your tranny life by preventing possible damage from occurring. It won't prevent damage from out-right "bad shifting", but you get the idea.

On with the install !

OK... HERE WE GO!

1. Here's what comes in the Pro-5.0 kit. A new shifter (fully assembled) and 4 bolts to bolt it down. It works in the T45, T5 and T56 trannies. Fits '83 and up stangs, including Cobra. Shifter Kit
2. It features two stop bolts that prevent you from over extending the shift forks and causing damage. Now, you can slam/jam your stick with no worries ! Stop Bolts
3. Of course they scribed their Pro-5.0 name on the base. Pro-5.0
4. They even "spammed" the stick, cool ;-) This stick is a bit shorter than the stock stick for about a 33% less throw for speedier shifting. Even spammed the stick !
5. Let's get started. First remove the factory shift knob, by unscrewing it from the stick. It may be hard, but it does come off easy once it's loose.. Remove Knob
6. Now "pop off" the plastic cover that covers the shifter area. It's the all black plastic piece. The easiest way is to put your thumbs on the inside area and lift it up with your thumbs on both sides (like removing a helmet). Careful not to break the plastic snap in the very front of it. Lift the back first, then lift back and up on it. The leather "stick boot" will come off with this. There is a rubber grommet that needs to be slipped off the stick. Also disconnect the lighter power cable clip. Pop off cover

7. Here we show the plastic cover removed.

Cover removed
8. Now remove the two bolts that hold on the stock shifter stick. Notice the rubber bushings. These allow the stock stick about a 1/2 inch of slop during shifting ! The new shifter does not have this. The stock rubber bushings are there to absorb vibration, without them you can shift more positively, but you will notice slightly more vibration in the stick when you hold it at higher rpms. Remove 2 bolts
9. Now you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the main rubber shift boot down to the chassis. Remove main rubber boot
10. The top left bolt is a pain to get off. There is little room in there for a wrench. About 30 minutes of this install are spent removing/installing this bolt alone! It's not hard just take your time. Have fun. Hard to get to
11. Careful, don't rip the rubber boot when removing ! Loosen it up by lifting up in all areas a bit before removing it completely. It really "sticks". After you remove it you will see your shifter mechanism (and the floor of your parking space as well) It's open right down to the floor. Next you need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the shift mechanism onto the tranny. Remove 4 shifter bolts
12. Next just pull up on the stick. We re-installed the stock stick for more leverage. Careful, don't go "flying back" after this comes off. Pull it out.
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