Mustangworld 4.6L Pullies Install

13. Let's look at the pulleys. Here is the alternator pulley. Notice the new billet pulley is only a hair larger than the stock pulley (only 9% change). This means no "dim" headlights at idle and perfect charging of your battery ! Our own tests are: OLD: 5.5cm Dia, 17.28cm Circum. NEW: 6 cm Dia., 18.85 cm Circum. 1.57 ratio, overall 9.09% larger. A larger pulley means less rotation, less drag.
14. The water pump is where the "slack" in the belt is really taken up. The under drive is much larger than stock. No engine cooling problems either. Our own tests: OLD: 13cm Dia., 40.84cm Circum. NEW: 16cm Dia., 50.27cm Circum. 9.43 ratio, overall 23.09% larger. A larger pulley means less rotation, less drag.
15. The new underdrive crank is much smaller for much less drag! Amazing considering that we are keeping virtually the same alt. pulley size! Our tests: OLD: 16.5cm Dia., 51.84cm Circum. NEW: 12.5cm Dia., 39.27cm Circum. 12.57 ratio, overall 32.01% smaller. Because the crank drives all other accessories, belt speed is also reduced by around 32% across the RPM spectrum, take this into account as well.
16. Now remove any metal pieces that are not smooth. You'll want a perfect fit for all pulleys. Here we are filling around the new crank pulley's "key notch" area.
17. We have to now "sandwich" the old and new crank pulleys together. You'll have the new underdrive crank pulley AND your old crank pulley (which is also a vibration dampener) running on your stang at the same time. This is normal.
18. Bolt them together using locktite #242 on the bolts. Even though it's not important to line up the notches in both pulleys, we lined them up to aid in finding BTDC, Top dead center, for future engine mods. There is a mark on the stock crank, so we lined up the key notches in both pulleys before tightening them together (for the hell of it).
19. The Mustangworld Cooking Show? Not exactly... But you will need to boil the entire assembly in hot water to aid in the install back onto the crankshaft. It's a tight fit. Boiling the assembly will slightly expand the metal and allow you to slip this onto the crankshaft very easily. If you don't do this it won't fit and the crank bolt is not long enough to tighten it onto the crankshaft. Fill up water in a pan up to the level of the new crank. There is no need to boil your old crank, boil it with the new crank face down.
20. While it's boiling (not for more than 10 min!) You can see where you have to put it. Notice the crankshaft, the seal and most importantly THE KEY NOTCH on the crankshaft. You see, after you take the crank pulley assembly out of the boiling water, you'll need to SEAL THE KEY NOTCH AREA, with high temp silicon sealer. If you don't, oil will spill out of this notch area !!! Lay a bead of sealant in the "key notch" area quickly on the new crank pulley before installing.
21. You don't need to rush, the assembly should stay hot for a few minutes after taking it out of the boiling water. So take your time, seal the notch key area, then put the new crank pulley assembly into place on the crankshaft, lining up the key and Notch. It will slide in easily. Oh yeah, wear gloves, or you will burn your hands. Now apply more sealant on the crank bolt, and using the old crank bolt washer, install the new longer crank bolt.
22. Torque the crank shaft bolt down to 60ft pounds using a torque wrench. Make sure the other 3 gold screws are tight also (to around 20-30 Ft pounds).
23. Now bolt on your water pump pulley with the 4 stock bolts and your new alternator pulley should already be in place. Now re-install the belt. See our belt diagram below.
24. Here's another view, notice the old crank pulley in place with no belt on it? Kinda funny looking, but this is how it works folks... Future kits may include a new pulley/dampener in one unit. Save your old pulleys for possible future use. Re-connect your battery and start your engine. Check for a smooth engine run.