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Oil Cooler Install
Contributed by Michael Konor




HOW-TO:

Since the purchase of my 99 Mustang Convertible in August of 1999, I've been on a constant quest to upgrade and stabilize my vehicle to ensure that it lasts me as long as I kept my last car, a 1984 Pontiac Fiero.

My latest project was in the installation of a Tru-Cool Oil Cooler onto the 3.8l V-6 that came with my car. I've already installed a transmission cooler, and if you've questions about that installation, e-mail me at the address listed at the bottom of this page.

Parts Needed:
Ford Racing (But made by Tru-Cool) Part Number M-6642-S101. I got this from www.brothersperformance.com (their part number is -FMM6642S101) for $109.99. When I received the kit, I immediately realized that I would have to get some additional parts to make the installation much easier and a bit more functional.

First, I noticed that the supplied hose was only 6 feet long. This would limit the places I could install the cooler and also the routing of the oil lines to keep them out of any place they could get damaged. Also, I noticed that without a couple of elbows, the hoses would have large loops. This would take up some room, and besides it would look pretty sloppy.

So you will also need:
2 each, 90 Degree Elbows, 5/8 ID
6 feet, 5/8 ID Oil Resistant Hose
4 each, hose clamps
7 Quarts Oil (I use Mobile Synthetic 5W-30)
1 Oil Filter (I installed the Fram X2 Filter)
Teflon Tape
10-12 6 inch cable ties.

Tools Required:
Flat Tip Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
1-1/8 Socket that will fit torque wrench
Knife
Drill with 9/64 Bit
Oil Filter Wrench
Metric Socket Set
Metric Box/Open End Wrench Set
Suitable container(s) to collect used oil

Here are the main parts before installation (I had installed the brass connectors in advance, they do not come installed).


First I removed the top shroud and hood latching assembly from the front of the car. This gave me access, in front of the radiator, to install the cooler. I'm very limited for space in the front since I've also installed a transmission fluid cooler, and a Jacobs Electronics High Energy Mileage Master Ignition System (www.jacobselectronics.com).



You can also see the Vortech Supercharger I've installed. This is part of the reason I installed the additional oil and fluid coolers. I'm currently writing an installation article and review of the kit.

Second, following the instructions in the kit. I installed all the brass connectors onto the sandwich plate adapter, and onto the oil cooler. While I had it out, I also installed the bottom brackets, with extensions, and the short pipe extensions/elbows you see in the picture. Be sure that you use offsetting wrenches when installing the fittings. The oil cooler fittings are brazed, and you'll twist them off if you're not careful. The instructions are explicit about this, you twist them off, you're not covered by warranties.



Third, I drilled and mounted the oil cooler into the top metal frame to the left of where the hood latch is located. Raise car so that you can get to the bottom of the vehicle.

Fourth, you can see from the picture above how I routed the pipes, and brackets through the other components that are located in front of the radiator.

Fifth, I attached the 5/8 Oil Lines and drilled/screwed the bottom mounting screws down.


Here are a couple of more views from the bottom:






Sixth, I routed the oil lines around the left side of the radiator, over the top of the power steering pump lines and put them to the side until I was ready to install them onto the sandwich plate.

Seventh, I drained the oil and removed the old oil fiter. Be sure and properly dispose of all waste oil.

Eighth, I applied a small amount of clean oil to the supplied O-Ring and mounted teh Sandwich Plate Adapter into Place. Be sure that you ensure that the o-ring is seated correctly, or you will have leaks. Torque the mounting adapter nut to 30 Ft Lbs of Torque. The instructions with the kit have very detailed information on placing the sandwich plate adapter. There's only one way that you can put the adapter on, so don't worry about reversing it by accident.



Ninth, cut to length, and attach the oil feed lines from the cooler. It doesn't matter which one you hook up to which nipple.



Note: The additional brass line you see connected in the above picture is the oil feed line for my supercharger. Not a part of this installation.

Tenth, install your new oil filter. CHECK and RECHECK all fittings and connections one last time. Once you're sure everything is connected, take your cable ties and ensure that all oil lines are out of the way of: 1) moving objects 2) above the cradle of the car 3) generally out of harms way.



Eleventh, lower car and add oil. I found that I had to add 6.9 quarts of oil to balance out the draining of the oil, new oil filter, and the cooler itself. Be sure and check your oil level frequently for the first day of driving to get it balanced out. Do not overfill your oil!!

Lastly, start the car and let it run up to operating temperature. Look at your oil pressure guage and make sure that it's reading normally. Turn the car off and reach down and touch the oil cooler lines. They should be hot to the touch. This'll show you that oil is flowing normally.

Be sure and check your connections after the first 50 miles. Myself, I just kept looking under the car to make sure that there were no leaks. To date, I haven't had a leak or any problems the the oil cooler install.

If you've got questions, contact me at mkonor1@elp.rr.com

Michael Konor
El Paso, Texas


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