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FR500 steering
wheel Install
(94 to 2000 models)
Article sent
in by David MacCallum

Photo of FR500 wheel
1. Disconnect
the negative wire on the battery and wait 20 minutes.
1a. Remove the two plastic covers (one on each side of the wheel).
2. Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the airbag in place.
3. Airbag will fall out but still be attached by a wire. Reach
around back of plastic connector and depress the plastic lever to release
the connector. Set airbag aside.
4. Unplug the 2 horn wires. Unplug the cruise control wire.
5. Use phillips head to remove 4 screws that hold cruise control
buttons to steering wheel.
6. Remove cruise control buttons and set aside.
7. Need Torx socket to remove large bolt holding steering wheel
to steering column. However, I used a combination of a long thin socket
and the square butt of a screwdriver insert (the kind you insert into
the end of a power drill) to take mine off. Used a $14.99 steering wheel
puller from Auto Zone or similar to remove the wheel. Wheel pops off.
Never use a hammer to pound on the shaft or wheel center to try to loosen
the steering wheel (I learned this lesson with my 86GT when I installed
a MOMO steering wheel many years ago...result was slop in the steering
from a bent/distorted shaft.)
8. Put new wheel on dining room table (assuming you have a loving
wife like mine). Remove horn relays using a hex key tool. Remove phillips
screws that are holding the plastic housing on the back of the steering
wheel. Transfer all of this stuff onto the new wheel. Add the cruise control
buttons last.
9. Pop on new wheel. You'll notice the wheel is not a tight fit
on the shaft. This is normal. Apply pressure to the wheel and turn it
to the right. Then tighten the bolt. This ensures the wheel stays true.
Otherwise it may be a little off center when driving.
10. Reassemble everything else. And you are good to go. About a
45 minute job for a first timer.
The wheel is about
30-50% thicker than the original. The leather feels a little smoother/softer
than the stock wheel. The wheel feels easier to turn because you can grab
it easier. Weird feeling to describe but very cool. I'm very happy with
it. How thick is it? A good example: pretend like you are holding a bat
with your right hand. With the stock wheel, my pointer and middle fingers
easily touch the base of my thumb. With the FR500, there is a gap of about
1/4 to 1/2 inch.

Above is a comparison
of the stock wheel (on the left and the FR500 (on the right). The stock
wheel is reversed so I could do a side by side. - Dave
M.
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Extra Reader
Supplied Notes:
Its a Torx T-50 and easy to find at Autozone, etc. You can also
leave the cruise switches on the wheel when you take it off. Then
just remove them when you got the stock wheel on the table. - Steve99cobra
Great how to
for the wheel. Just wanted to add a couple of notes from my FR500
install. The cruise control buttons were held on by allen head bolts
not phillips screws on my 98GT. The tabs at the bottom of the wheel
need to be broken off if you dont have cruise control or the back
cover wont fit right on the lower part of the wheel. They snap right
off with pliers. These tabs are what the cruise control knobs mount
to I think. I have the boxes inside the hub for cruise control but
no buttons. Also the torx bit is a T50, same size as the seatbelt
bolts. -Thanks......98GT4me
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MW
Note: The FR500 Stering wheel is made by Ford
Performance Parts and is listed in their FRPP 2000 catalog Part no. M-3601-B.
Fits 1994 - 00 Mustang V6, GT and Cobra. It features thicker racing style
rim section, covered in perforated and smooth black leather. Uses your
existing airbag and cruise control switches.
Special MW
coverage of the FR500 Mustang from the SEMA show (for those that missed
it last year) is locted
here.
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