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The Mayor of Whittier’s Ride (update)
AC Control plate install below


We met up with the Mayor at the last Saleen show, where he won an award for his ride. This guy is really the coolest ! Check out more at his website www.allanz.com - MW

Modifications made after purchase:
Interior
Sheepskin seatcovers
Mac white faced gauges
White faced A/C panel
Carbon fiber door and dash pod trim from Mustang World.com
B&M Hammer shifter (not installed yet)
Custom dash cover

Suspension
Eibach lowering springs, Maximum Motorsports pinion snubber
Bilstein Shocks
Steeda Caster/Camber plates
Maximum Motorsports full-sized welded-in subframe connectors
Kenny Brown anti-squat/anti-dive lower control arm brackets

Exhaust
Complete Stainless steel 2 ½’ Bassani exhaust system
Bassani X-pipe with high-flow cats
Quiet Thunder stainless steel mufflers
3 ½’ stainless steel exhaust tips

Brakes
Baer Claw twin piston 13-inch front brakes, 12 inch rears
All rotors cross-drilled, slotted, washed
Braided stainless steel Goodridge brake lines

Exterior
Chromed GT factory wheels
Classic Design Concepts honeycomb rear black trim
Sequential turn signal taillights
High intensity metal halide headlights
100-watt highway horn and P.A. System
Rear spoiler moved 2 ½” back
Metallic tinted windows done by Formula One Tinting

Engine
Saleen supercharger, (adds 100 hp, minimum 360hp at engine)
Separate intercooler system
30 lb. injectors, colder plugs, Re-flashed computer, K&N filter
Fourth-Generation Eaton M-90 supercharger, (6 to 10 psi)
3 security systems including Lojack


AC Heater Control plate

White-Faced A/C and Heater Controls Installation, ’99 GT
Even more curious was receiving white-faced air conditioning/heating gauges from C.J Pony parts through the mail with no instructions at all. Here are a few helpful hints that you will make the installation easier.
Tools needed: T-20 torx head tool with enough extensions to add up to about 9 inches. (You can temporarily tape them together so they do not come apart mid-surgery.)
Ford radio/CD player removal tool, available at Pep Boys in their radio department for $5.00 (My friendly Board Ford dealer released my radio and CD player from the dash for me for free by using his removal tool and told me where to buy the special tool.) You would think that Ford would make removing the radio and CD players harder to remove for theft prevention! They slide out easily on white nylon glides that look like kitchen drawer plastic hardware.
To unplug all of the wires from the back of the radio and CD player, always squeeze the plastic tabs on the connectors to release them, don’t pry out on any plastic tabs. Depending on fingertip strength, you might have to push in on the connectors with a screwdriver.
There are only three torx screws to remove. The first thing you must do is remove the two that are hidden under the front edge of the plastic fascia of the radio. Use a nut driver sized tool or 1/4 inch socket with the torx head in it.
The third (last) screw is visible inside the dash after you remove the CD player and radio. You will need about 9 inches of extension to reach it, but it is easy to see when you shine some light in the radio’s dash hole. When you need to re-install this screw, just tape it to the end of the torx tip so it doesn’t fall off into the dash.
The three knobs just pull straight off, no setscrews.
Here is one interesting (and free!) option. When you go to re-install the CD player and radio, install the CD player in the TOP hole and the radio in the BOTTOM spot. Now you can actually get CDs out of your machine without running into the shifter! (The radio and CD player are exactly the same size.) All you need to do is to pop off the white nylon “drawer glide” that is on each component and reverse its orientation. Move the nylon piece from the top to the bottom of the rear of the unit. Do not unscrew anything, just pop off the plastic piece with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Then reach into the dash and pull the speaker/antenna/power wires through the appropriate hole in the dash. Before pushing in the components, make sure the speaker wires etc. are out of the way so the components can slide all of the way back into the dash. Very easy!
Option #2
Before re-installing the dash fascia, put a little electrical tape around the edge of the hole in the dash to prevent squeaks. It provides a little buffer so that the plastic does not bind and squeak like a GM product.


Gauge pod insert and Door Jamz

Rear Honeycomb Trim from Classic Design Concepts Installation, ‘99 GT
Amazing as it seems, this product that I installed today does not ever come with installation instructions! All they tell you is to clean the trunk lid area with alcohol so that the double-sided tape will stick. The double-sided tape is very unforgiving, so test-fit the three plastic pieces first.
What they forgot to mention is that you need to heat up the plastic “GT” and “Ford” trunk emblems with a heat gun or hair dryer in order to carefully pry them off your trunk lid with a flat bladed screwdriver. It is also a good idea to glue the name badges onto the newly installed honeycomb trim with some black silicone glue, (not included), and not just trust that they will survive many trunk closings forever.
The product is pricey at $125.00 ($139.00 Fed-Ex’ed to your door), but their customer service is excellent and their product well-made with very good attention to detail.

Spoiler slid back 2.5 inches. I ground down the square tab on the wing
rather than drill bigger holes. It was easier that way. Put some tape
between the spoiler and trunk lid or it will squeak.

 


 

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